The sexy swimming hole of Sorrento, Bagni della Regina Giovanna
The Queen of Naples, Regina Giovanna or Joanna (1326–1382) was a legend before her time. Spanish-raised, she inherited the kingdom of Napoli from her grandfather at 17 years old. Although being a queen at 17 might not have been ideal for Giovanna, she had already taken on the title of wife at age 7, when she married Andrew of Hungary. According to history, she murdered him two years after taking the throne, motivated by his attempts to rule Naples without her.
Quite heartbroken I’m sure, she married three times more, to Louis of Taranto, James of Majorca, and Otto of Brunswick, all brought to the Neapolitan political scene with their own deviant plans to remove Queen G from power.
Regina Giovanna had little patience for the manipulation and political games of the men in her life, so she turned to a relative in a last effort to save her kingdom. Although help was on the way, the murdered-ex’s-brother attacked Naples, and Queen Giovanna was captured, imprisoned and killed.
Another unfortunate tale of male greed and cruelty. *tsk’ tsk
However, today the Queen is honored in her favorite place in Naples by thousands of visitors each year.
Bagni della Regina Giovanna, or the Baths of Queen Giovanna is a hidden gem and local treasure located on the tip of Cape Sorrento. According to legend, the Queen spent much of her time at these baths where she and her ladies-in-waiting waded around the waters with their various lovers. Although the political affairs of her marriage were falling apart, Giovanna had her own sanctuary in this beautiful Roman villa and cliff-enclosed natural pool.
Call it scandalous, call it sexy. Either way, the paradise remains.
PLAN YOUR TRIP | Bagni della Regina Giovanna
Alimentari Capo di Sorrento, the Salumeria where I got my picnic lunch
The baths and ruins are easily reached by bus with a short walk and climb.
Begin on Via Capo from Sorrento, staying on this street until you reach Traversa Punta Capo.
Stop by the Salumeria (Deli) at the corner of Via Capo and Traversa Punta Capo for some picnic goodies to eat along the water. I got the best sandwich of my entire life and an Aperol spritz to-go! (& plenty of water)
The route down Traversa will become a foot path that will open along a coastal path and down a steep staircase.
A staircase leads down to the pools. It is shallow and perfect for swimming. Walk all the way to the point of the Cape to find the Roman villa ruins, along with sweeping views of the gulf and the Sorrento Peninsula.
Follow the path further along towards the bouldered wall. Another set of stairs leads down to a few coves with sea swimming and cliff jumping.
Nearest Airport:
Queen G and her boys in the yard.